Angkor Who? ...Cambodia

Angkor Wat, Siem Reap, Cambodia
October 25 - November 3, 2008

I arrived in the dirty Cambodian capitol of Phnom Penh and the difference from Thailand was immediate. Bicycles clogged the dirty road as much as scooters, as everyone weaves and dodges through the uncontrolled chaos. Hanging out near the lucrative foreigner hostels, young girls of perhaps 8 years old peddle their photocopied books for money. When denied, they respond with shockingly mature but ill-placed comments such as "no money, no honey!" and "come on, daaaarling!" in perfect english. Charming as they may be, they are business women to the bone.

Before seeing The Killing Fields in Phnom Penh, I wanted to experience the current Cambodian Khmer culture in order to gain more respect and insight before subjecting myself to a glimpse of this relatively recent blight on human nature. The bus ride to Siem Reap gave me a window view of people living in wooden huts and alongside green fields of rice. The water buffalo cool off in the flooded lands near the people's huts, and the often naked children play, bathe, and fish with nets in the same waters. It was apparent that this country was very poor and back to the roots of civilization.

The town of Siem Reap has been revamped for the tourist industry. Vacationers spend the days being driven around in tuk tuks viewing the ancient Angkor Wat temples, relaxing in the highly european cafes drinking lattés, eating in comfortable restaurants, diving into the western nightlife, and avoiding child beggars, amputees, and ladyboys. People stay for 3 days. Get in, buy the t-shirt, get out.

Angkor Wat is a collection of temple ruins from the Khmer Empire existing between the 9th and 12th centuries. The ruins have become a massive tourist attraction, and have recently been made more famous by the filming of Angelina Jolie's movie Tomb Raider, featuring the twisted tree at Ta Prom temple. The jungle has reclaimed many of the ruins, where massive tree roots have uplifted and wound themselves into the ancient stone buildings. The ruins are filled with children sent by their parents to sell souvenirs, clothing, and constantly harass visitors for much-needed money. Unfortunately this really takes away from any spiritual feelings these temples may have. I did meet a young girl who was the exception in all Angkor Wat. Self-named Crazy Girl Kwan followed me through the last temple on my first day trying to sell me a tee-shirt and a sarong, but this girl of maybe 12 years old was witty, charismatic, full of humour, and a very good natured kid. We joked and laughed throughout the whole temple, as she greeted any nationality of tourist in their own language. When denied money, most schildren turn their backs and quickly forget about you, but Kwan was interested in talking, enjoying life, and smiling that perfect Cambodian smile. I offered her a very small amount of money if I could take her photo, to which she agreed. She then pulled out a cheap ring from her purse, gave it to me (no charge) and told me never to give it away to anyone else. I returned the next evening to bring her a Canadian pin and a little extra money, because she really is a fantastic and exceptional human being. Her brothers and sisters were also excited to see me again, and not once was I asked for money... they just enjoyed the jokes, the laughter, and the company. These were the real Cambodians.

Unfortunately, an earlier experience at one of the temples showed an ugly side of desperation. While photographing ancient doorways at the edge of Pre Rup Temple, a little girl suddenly ventured through and asked for money. I said "sorry", and she replied with "Ok, boom boom"? She was offering her body in exchange for my money. I then offered her some small change if I could take her photograph, at which point her younger sister also appeared in the doorway with an initially mistrustful look on her face. After I'd taken a couple of photographs, I noticed their older brother lurking in the background. These, unfortunately, are also real Cambodians. I hope this remains a rare exception for my experiences in Cambodia.

Between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. Woman cycling amongst a herd of cattle!


Siem Reap, Cambodia. Crazy crazy amounts of rain doesn't deter anyone from getting anywhere!

Angkor Wat. Again, the trees tangle amongst the ruins.

Pre Rup Temple, Angkor Wat, Cambodia. This little girl peddles her trinkets everyday at the temples. I caught her acting upon her frustration by throwing her goods into the wall after she thought she'd disappeared from sight after I wouldn't buy any from her. It is impossible to help everyone, and it is also questionable whether buying their trinkets even helps them at all since their parents force them to sell in the first place. It is scary to consider what may be this beautiful girl's future.

Pre Rup Temple, Angkor Wat, Cambodia. Woman leading her cattle through the ruins.

Ta Prom Temple, Angkor Wat, Cambodia. These roots of these ancient trees seem to flow like liquid amongst the ancient stones of these temples.

Ta Prom Temple, Angkor Wat, Cambodia. These roots of these ancient trees seem to flow like liquid amongst the ancient stones of these temples.

Angkor Wat, Cambodia. This fearless little girl races along on her oversized bike with an oversized smile on her face.

Angkor Wat, Cambodia. This girl isn't big enough for this bike, yet she manages to ride it along the road and through mud puddles... and we force our over-protected kids to wear neon vests and helmets.


Ta Prom, Angkor Wat, Cambodia. This is the famous tree. Really really touristed, yet this photo still doesn't do it justice. I would have liked to see Angelina Jolie perched up on the roots!

Angkor Wat, Cambodia. Carved creatures on the walls of the Temple of the Leper King.

Bayon Temple, Angkor Wat, Cambodia. The ancient temples were amazing, but lacked the mystical vibe that was readily apparent in the Tikal temples in Guatemala.

Angkor Wat, Cambodia. The Temple of the Leper King and the walls of carved faces!

Bayon Temple, Angkor Wat, Cambodia. Doorways upon doorways through the temples.

Neak Pean Temple, Angkor Wat, Cambodia. You gotta love war! One of many amputee mine victims playing in a band and begging for money.

Banteay Kdei Temple, Angkor Wat, Cambodia. My tuk tuk driver, and Crazy Girl Kwan (in the red and white shirt) and her family and friends. If you ever go to Angkor Wat, please stop by and tell them Rob From Canada sent them!!! These are the most amazing kids from Angkor.

Pre Rup Temple, Angkor Wat, Cambodia. This is Eelie and her younger sister. Moments before taking this photo, Eelie had offered to sell her body to me for sex. Her older brother lurks in the background.

Roulos Group, Angkor Wat, Cambodia. Monk walking out of the temples.

Beng Melea Temple, Angkor Wat, Cambodia. This temple is far out, and relatively isolated... the motorcycle ride through the countryside was amazing.

North of Siem Reap, Cambodia. Typical cyclist carrying goods. This is the future of transportation if our developed world doesn't smarten up...!

North of Siem Reap, Cambodia. Woman tending her rice paddy on a lonesome road.

North of Siem Reap, Cambodia. I'm not sure this load would pass by the transportation regulations in North America.

North of Siem Reap, Cambodia. Slow moving bamboo.

North of Siem Reap, Cambodia. Water buffalo and rice fields. This is a typical view in the countryside of Cambodia.

Banteay Srey Temple, Angkor Wat, Cambodia. A beautifully and intricately carved temple.

North of Siem Reap, Cambodia. Hanging the washing out to dry... over a pond!