Zagreb, Croatia

September 27 - October 1, 2007

ZAGREB
Somewhere between Belgrade and Zagreb, Europe seemed to happen. As I meandered in the general direction I suspected the city centre to be, dusk gently settled upon the city. I strolled past manicured parks, european buildings and modest water fountains. Largely pedestrian, my walk was not spoiled by hordes of traffic spewing diesel fumes and noise pollution, but a gentle, quiet walk that allowed me to hear other people's footsteps and smell the aroma of roasting chestnuts and fresh popcorn wafting through the streets.

Even in the cold weather, the city centre was alive with action. Cafes were jammed with people at most times of the morning, day, and evening, and the town centre was a place to meet people and enjoy watching the world go by. Sadly, this culture is rare in north america, where it seems that people are too afraid to venture out of their homes. During the day, the central market was alive with action. The city is laid out with botanical gardens, numerous city parks along major walkways, and a modern efficient tram system that people actually use.


PLIVICE LAKES NATIONAL PARK
A short bus ride from Zagreb, the Plitvice Lakes National Park is a series of 16 vibrantly couloured lakes and are home to many species of moss, algae, bacteria, and Japanese tour groups. Fortunately for me (them??), I visited during a relatively low season and was able to refrain from accidentally bumping the tour groups into the water... It was interesting to notice how the water cycled through phases of dynamic movement, cascading over the cliff edges, swallowed back up into the calmness of the lakes, only to repeat the cycle at another point below. Always in motion, but not always apparent. Here is a link for more information on the park!



Zagreb, Croatia. Looking down on the flower market and central square.


Zagreb, Croatia. Old lady in the market.


Zagreb, Croatia. Two nuns in the market looking at different ways to spice up their life. If you look carefully, you can see that the more experienced nun seems to be buying from the spice labelled "Eros", while the younger nun casts a disturbed glance at even the red hot chili's.


Zagreb, Croatia. How do you like them apples, mister?



Zagreb, Croatia. This old guy seems a few apples short of a bushel.



Zagreb, Croatia. Not quite the cafe culture, but these old voyeurs are content watching the world go by from their bench.


Zagreb, Croatia. Two old men embroiled in conversation at a cafe.






Zagreb, Croatia. Solo cafe experience.







Zagreb, Croatia. Outside the museum, it appears that someone's ass is just too big to fit through the door!



Plitvice National Parks, Croatia. This was the beginning of my hike through Plitvice, and also the location of my camera lens cap dropping onto walkway and through the cracks into the water...


Plitvice National Parks, Croatia. View of the turquoise waters from above.


Plitvice National Parks, Croatia. Small waterfalls over mossy rocks.



Plitvice National Parks, Croatia. Waterfalls through the forest, emptying into the blue lake, with other waterfalls in the background.



Plitvice National Parks, Croatia. Water draining through the forest and into a stream.



Plitvice National Parks, Croatia. More silky waterfalls.



Plitvice National Parks, Croatia. A fairly high falls emptying into a translucent green bog.

Dubrovnik, Croatia

Dubrovnik, Croatia, August 8/9, 2007


After a few months without a car, it felt good to be behind the wheel as I drove Daniella's car down the stunning (although vegetation-devoid) coast of Croatia. Rising over the hills, the waters and hills surrounding Dubrovnik promised a visually beautiful experience. Scott, Daniella, and I settled into a campground on the outskirts of Dubrovnik before heading into the old town for the evening.


The limestone streets of Dubrovnik were polished to a smoothness that glistened in the streetlights... but only when you could see the ground through the hordes of tourists. Busy cafes, pubs, and eateries spilled out onto the alleys, stairways, and squares of the old town. We wandered through the back alleys and steep stairs to search out the town's less obvious highlights, and play around with some night photography. Hanging above the polished city, there was a constant glowing cross that appeared to be suspended in the night sky. The cross was actually perched on top of steep hill just outside the city that was invisible against the dark sky.


Beautiful, but too touristy for me, I decided to leave Dubrovnik the next day and go down to Montenegro... but not before a brief return to see the old city in the light. I randomly ducked through a small doorway which opened up into a tremendous view of the Adriatic with a cafe built on a slab of rocks clinging to the fortified exterior wall of the old town. Enjoying an early afternoon beer while watching people dive into the rolling waters of the sea, I figure that I have a pretty good life!

Unfortunately I had to awaken from my daydreaming and catch a bus from Dubrovnik to small town Kotor in Montenegro, situated at the end of a massive fjord and protected by a fortress perched above the city.

Part of the fortress built on the rocks, as viewed from just outside the city walls.

Alley stairs leading up and towards the seaside walls of the city.

Laundry being taken in sometime after midnight.

The hustle and bustle of the tourists milling around a church in one of the main squares.

Cafe overlooking the Adriatic on the outside of the city walls.




A waiter delivering food down the steep stairs to tables scattered in the polished alleyways.


The harbor outside the city walls.

Splitting Split, Croatia

Split, Croatia, August 7 - August 8

The busride from Sarajevo to Split was made interesting by the events from the previous night. My new friends in Sarajevo convinced me to stay out late the evening before I was supposed to leave. Combined with my hostel-room-turned-brothel, I was only able to sleep for about 30 minutes before making a dash for the bus station.

I had neglected to buy a metro pass due to my lack of sleep. My run-in (or more accurately, run-from) the traffic cops was something I would have preferred not to deal with. The corrupt traffic cops target backpackers for skipping bus fare. Approaching me with a smile on their faces, they asked me to produce my ticket, which of course I could not. They already had the 'ticket book' open, and showed me the fine I had to pay them immediately, which was certain to end up in their pockets. After refusing to give them my passport (wasn't quite sure what my rights were), and a little bumping around (mostly of me)... I attempted to leave the bus, when they slammed the door and wouldn't let me leave. After feigning that they caught my hand in the door (with a manly yelp), I was able to push my way through the closed door and past the officers. When they continued to follow me, I told them I had to hit a bank machine to pay them. Dodge left, dodge right, fake for the train station, then dart for the bus station... while carrying a big backpack, a mild hangover, and a rapidly approaching necessity to hit the toilet. They easily found me at the bus station and waited while I paid for my bus ticket (hopefully leaving in a mere 15 minutes). I confronted them and yelled at them to call the police, which I knew they would not do. If the police came, they wouldn't get to pocket the money, and they would waste their time. I wasn't sure if my tactic would work, but I figured it was worth the risk. And it paid off.

Splitting Sarajevo for Split, an 8 hour busride took me through the beautiful Bosnian and Croatian countryside, and northwards to Split. I met up with Scott and Daniella who were camping down the coast for a few days, and the timing worked out well. We spent a brief period of time in Split, then searched for a place to camp for the evening. The next day was spend lounging in the buoyant waters and on the rocky Croatian beaches before driving down to Dubrovnik.

Some architecture in Split.

The promenade along the water in Split.

Rocky beaches along the coast.



Shadows of palm trees swaying in the light wind.



Roadside fruit stands on the drive down to Dubrovnik.