Sarajevo, August 3 - August 7, 2007
Situated in the valley and hills, Sarajevo must have been an intense place to wage war, and survive war. Almost every footstep taken in this city is a reminder of the devastation that took place. Buildings are riddled with bullet holes if they haven't been completely bombed out. Along the footpaths and sidewalks, there are damages still remaining from roadside bombs, and several are filled in with red paint to signify where someone's life was lost due to the blast. White tombstones fill the many graveyards scattered among the communities. These are all constant reminders of the disgusting nature of war, and how it serves to exploit common people for the benefit of power and money of a selected few. Sarajevo claims to be a place where religions coexist peacefully, containing strong Muslim presence as well as Jewish, Orthodox, and Catholics in close proximity. There is a political and cultural complexity that I will never understand surrounding the war and devastation these people survived.
Sarajevo, which once held the winter Olympics, is still working to remove land mines out in the hills. I walked for hours at a time up the steep hills, until the houses gave way to natural beauty. These are houses that would be worth millions of dollars in any other city, with spectacular views over the hills and city. At the very top of the city, only the skeletons of many buildings remain near the tree line. Sign posts are erected to warn of yet unexploded landmines. The Olympic bobsled track is in shambles due to the warfare.
On the other side of the story, people from Sarajevo seem to have a resilience for life, and the mentality of a survivor. The inner core has taken an extremely touristic turn, lined with cafes and a few bars. I met with some fellow travellers and a few locals who showed us around for some amazing live music and some fun times out on the town. As a note, I ordered something from a cafe which was labelled 'beef and garlic'. Sounded safe. When it landed in front of me, I was quite skeptical from the looks of it. My skepticism was elevated when it tasted somewhat like fish, and quite possibly one of the worst textures I have ever put in my mouth. I asked everyone at my table to try some just for confirmation. Inquisitive minds can sometimes endanger themselves... I knew I shouldn't, but I later asked what exactly that meal was, and they informed me that it was cow brain... Unfortunately, the last thing that went past that poor's bovine's brain were my tonsils!!
The bus out of Sarajevo passed some incredible scenery along river gorges, lakes, and small towns as I headed towards Croatia.
Pigeon Square, the heart of Sarajevo at night. The Muslim prayers can be heard echoing throughout the town.
View from a lookout hill over the river and surrounding hills.
Another lookout view. Another graveyard on the right.
Graveyard view, looking u to the lookout.
A contrast between the now-lived-in house with flowers, and the minor bullet holes still surrounding the windows. The devastation is typically much worse than this!
Typical alley.
These signposts also had me slightly worried...
One of my hikes along the deserted roads above the city began to really have me worried whether or not I should be there... Strange noises in the buildings turned out to be goats, which I can only presume there used to be more of them courtesy of the surrounding land mines.
Pace (cow brains) on the right... The last thing that went past that poor's bovine's brain were my tonsils!!
Some of the scenery throughout the Bosnian countryside.
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